Learn How To Photograph Long Exposure Photography: Long Exposure Photography tips
Long Exposure Landscape Photography:
By using longer shutter speeds you can capture movement within the landscape. Long exposures are best suited to landscapes with dynamic movement (e.g. the coast, waterfalls and rivers), however, you can also capture movement in the sky and foliage.
Subjects for Long Exposures:
Look for compositions that include a stationary objects (eg. rocks on the beach) as the primary focal point of the image; so you don’t just end up with a whole picture of blurred water, with no clear subject or focal point. Consider how much movement you want in your image and the direction of its flow – is it complimentary to your subject?
Control the Light:
To create a long exposure and not overexpose the image; you either need to work in low light (after sunset) or use Neutral Density (ND) filters to reduce your exposure. Using strong ND filters (10 stop) will allow you to create long exposures even on a bight sunny day. Lighter, less powerful ND filters (4 & 6 stop) are better suited to shooting in lower light or overcast days.
Simplify your Composition:
One reason of using long exposures in landscape photography can be to simplify compositions. Whilst shooting moving water with faster shutter speeds can result in some brilliant images, working with long exposures can remove all the detail for the water. This allows your subject to become highly defined and create depth with in the photograph.
Join us to capture some Long Exposure photography on one of our specialised Long Exposure Photography Workshops, running regularly throughout the country with some of New Zealand’s best photographers. See our 1-Day Long Exposure Workshops in Wellington and Auckland and also our 4-Day Long Exposure Masterclass to learn more!